1401 Robbins

Electrical

• Push Button Wall Plate
• Push Button Dimmer Switch
• Door Stop

Fridge

• Adaptive Defrost Enclosure:
  • PN: 61005988 made by "Siebe Appliance Controls", this is the part that dies, result is the system doesn't defrost and eventually can't cool.
  • Might be some instructions for fixing it on this site but it's not too difficult.
  • Part here for $54.
  • Looks like it could be found on ebay for around $30, do a search there and on google.

Dryer Kenmore burn marks

Very bottom of this link has useful info on felt seals:

[1]

This person describes similar situation:

[2]

Cheapest listing of the part I've found yet:

[3]

and other options: [4]

[5]

And a set of instructions quoted here:

It isn't so easy but with patience you can do it. Order the replacement felt/glide replacement kit and while you're at it, replace the lower basket seal if it is available for your model. You can get a full list of parts for your model at Sears on line. Replace the belt as long as you're in there. First remove AC power from the unit. PULL THE PLUG out of the wall to be dead certain there is no power in the unit. You need to remove the control panel and front dryer panel and door assembly. You may let the control panel hang by the cables although you will need to disconnect the two plugs on the left. Once the front panel is off you have access to the felt seals. The replacement kit includes new felt, shims, adhesive and instructions a reasonably capable handyman can follow. I have found that the rear ball bearing is a major source of squeaks in these stackable dryers. It is a LOT of trouble to remove the drum to lubricate the bearing seat, but it will cure the noise. Not everyone will agree with me on the practicality of trying to lube this bearing, either. For me it was lubricate or replace the whole washer/dryer combo, and the budget didn't exist for replacement, so... If you are not comfortable with a major disassembly involving removal of he drum, stop now. If you believe you can manage the chore, you are more than halfway to your goal as long as the front panel is off! Six screws hold the drum to the heater baffle and shaft assembly. Remove the screws and carefully slide the drum out of the machine. The belt can come with it. If you have not already done so now is the time to vacuum out all the lint you have encountered along the way. You can lubricate the rear bearing without yanking the whole shaft assembly out of the machine - it is actually better if you leave this part together. I was too ambitious and removed the screws that hold the bearing bracket to the rear dryer panel and the ball clip fell off the back (outside) and fell to the floor. It took a lot of imagination to put that part back together with the combo in a tiny closet. To lubricate, DO NOT USE OIL! Use a good quality, high-temperature grease or a Teflon-base grease on a Q-Tip. You want a lubricant that will stay put, not melt and run. It's a dryer; it gets hot back there. You can tilt the rear shaft and bearing assembly enough to see where the ball bearing actually rides in a nylon/delrin/plastic retainer. This is the part that squeaks after time. Dab some grease on the ball and rotate it through all angles in its retainer. Dab it again, but not so much that there will be excess grease that may run down the heater housing. You do not want to cause a fire and you do not want to explain the smoky smell of your laundry to the Wife/Significant Other! When the ball feels like it is moving smoothly in its retainer, that's enough. Wipe away any surplus grease as well as you can - you are working in close quarters - and carefully reassemble the dryer. Use the parts drawings that came with your machine as a guide to disassembly and reassembly. With patience and reasonable mechanical skills you can do this. Be careful, don't get in a hurry to finish and put all the parts you take out of the machine back in to the machine.

Good luck!